Some of you have contacted me asking for updates on the expedition. Arrangements were made for me to give regular blog entries via Satellite phone, unfortunately there were a few technical difficulties here in the UK, so my apologies.
Well, I'm back in Blighty and yes, it does seem a little like a dream, a fantastic dream! Antarctica is probably the last frontier on this planet, a truly amazing place where nature and the weather dictate everything.
We summited on 26th November in near ideal weather conditions, IE the weather wasn't going to get any better. We believe the temperature to have been negative 37 degrees Celsius. We had a light wind that probably gave a wind chill of a few degrees. So we summitted at a temperature where Celsius and Fahrenheit meet.
Back tracking, the international team (three Italians and American and an aging Englishman) left Base Camp loaded with ruck sacs and pulling sleds, roped for crevasse travel and set off up to and past Intermediate Camp heading up the Branscomb Glacier Eastwards then North under the West Face of Vinson and on to Low Camp. The crevasse hazard in this area is at it's greatest and although we are the first team to approach the mountain this season and the weather is still cold, minimising the possibilities of falling in to a crevasse, a fall could still be a potential disaster, so we are all roped in preparation to arrest any team member falling in to a crevasse.
Antarctica is a desert, surprisingly very little snow falls, it just gets blown around, the wind is ferocious and blows the snow which then freezes into 'waves' known as sastrugi. These ice waves have to be negotiated and if the sled loads are not packed low and correctly the sleds frequently role over, necessitating the whole roped team to stop. Rope travel needs patients and persistence.
We arrived at Low Camp just as the wind rose. From complete still blasts of icy wind came in strong gusts, strong enough to stop you in your tracks and cause you to turn your back against the blast. We learnt to listen for their approach and prepare ourselves.
It was under these conditions that we pitched out tents and cut snow blocks and built walls around the tents.
I am conscious that you will not want too much detail so I'll just give brief info to fill in from here to the summit and back.
There is an elevation of 1200 metres between Low and High camp largely gained via a Head Wall at a 45 degree angle. We climbed this Head Wall with full packs the going was not ideal, the snow was either very soft, causing us to slip back on each step, slabbed snow which cracked and slid down towards climbers below or ice. It was not possible to kick steps to make a 'staircase'. Hard work caused our goggles to become misted and some removed them resulting in snow blindness the following day, fortunately this was only temporary. After several hours we arrived at High Camp, a shallow hollow on a ridge looking back down to Low camp, the tents of which were inconspicuous black speaks.
Having rested a day, we set off for the summit. This was always going to be a long day, even our guide on the last of several steep rises leading to the fantastic summit ridge, could only take a few paces without resting. Gaining the Summit Ridge we knew we would be successful. The ridge is spectacular! We looked right to see Mount Shinn and left down the Branscomb Glacier. What a day! In 30 minutes we were standing on top of the highest mountain in Antarctica and one of the most remote mountains in the world and on a rare day when the weather was kind to us. We hadn't so much conquered the mountain, she and the weather had let us come to the top of her. We were the first team to visit her this season and the last for a further eight days. Having congratulated each other and taken the statutory picts we descended and as we did the wind rose. Several hours later we rolled in to our camp to eat and sleep. The following morning the ever present sun light was dull, caused by snow which very nearly covered our tents and this with high snow walls built around them. Before we could descend to Low Camp we had to spend several hours digging out the tents before packing them. We left High Camp at two pm descended the Head Wall, hiked to Low Camp, then having dismantled Low Camp, loaded our sleds we set off down to Base Camp, arriving some eight hours after leaving High Camp. That night we ate very well and even had beer to drink!
We flew out in the Twin Otter the following day at 11pm on glorious sun shine. There was a light breeze causing the snow to lift and hang in the air, in the sunlight, it looked as though there were a million diamonds in the air. Arriving back at Patriot Hills at midnight we again ate and at 3am, again in fantastic sunlight, we left Antarctica and flew North West to Chile in the Russia Ilshin. There were only nine people on board in this massive aeroplane, however we were accompanied by 2000 gallons of pee.
Antarctica is as near pristine as any place on this planet can be and every effort is being made by the Antarctica Logistics and Expedition company and all who visit to keep it that way. ALL trash, human excrement, pee and grey water is removed. Not a single scrape of paper, peanut, spent battery or item is left and long may it continue. It is also a very unforgiving place where attention to detail is paramount. Forgetting to cover your face quickly results in damaged skin. Frost nip and frost bite will get you if you remove your gloves.
If you are interested in hearing more about this trip then please do come along to one of the talks what we will be giving probably late January, (we will have all my gear there, plenty of photos, should be a good evening) or if you are interested in climbing the Seven Continental Summits, please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thursday 18 December 2008
Tuesday 25 November 2008
Sunday - a day of rest
Sunday 23rd
6pm - The group are now having a well earned rest day at Camp 1. The weather is sunny, cloudy and very windy. Last night it was about -20 degrees C. Yesterday we were hauling sleds in 2 teams, 1 of 3 and 1 of 4. It is so cold that the crevasses have snow bridges which are enabling us to take a more direct route than we would otherwise have had to take.
The wind can be extremely strong and gusty, ranging from 0 to very extreme gusts in a very short time. The wind was so strong that it blew down our catering tent.
We now have five tents and they have built snow walls 4’ high all around the camp, the walls are just higher than the top of the tents.
The spin drift is about 500 metres. Just 500 metres away the wind is coming down the mountain at quite a speed. We are expecting exceptionally bad weather tonight.
It is so cold that I am keeping the following items in my sleeping bag at night:- water bottle, pee bottle, all batteries (camera, sat phone, and ipod), toothpaste, socks, inner thermals and boots!!!
Tomorrow (Mon 24th) we intend to have a 5-6 hour climb up the head wall which is at a 45 degree angle to high camp where we will stash equipment before returning to Camp 1.
I have met a friend at camp who I climbed a previous mountain with so sharing this experience with someone again is very special.
6pm - The group are now having a well earned rest day at Camp 1. The weather is sunny, cloudy and very windy. Last night it was about -20 degrees C. Yesterday we were hauling sleds in 2 teams, 1 of 3 and 1 of 4. It is so cold that the crevasses have snow bridges which are enabling us to take a more direct route than we would otherwise have had to take.
The wind can be extremely strong and gusty, ranging from 0 to very extreme gusts in a very short time. The wind was so strong that it blew down our catering tent.
We now have five tents and they have built snow walls 4’ high all around the camp, the walls are just higher than the top of the tents.
The spin drift is about 500 metres. Just 500 metres away the wind is coming down the mountain at quite a speed. We are expecting exceptionally bad weather tonight.
It is so cold that I am keeping the following items in my sleeping bag at night:- water bottle, pee bottle, all batteries (camera, sat phone, and ipod), toothpaste, socks, inner thermals and boots!!!
Tomorrow (Mon 24th) we intend to have a 5-6 hour climb up the head wall which is at a 45 degree angle to high camp where we will stash equipment before returning to Camp 1.
I have met a friend at camp who I climbed a previous mountain with so sharing this experience with someone again is very special.
Landing at Base Camp
We are now at Base Camp. We have had our introductions, carried out safety procedures, crevasse rescues etc. We have to be very careful with the sun as it is extremely bright. There are 5 in the group plus 2 guides – Susan and Andy.
Thursday 20th
10.15pm - We left Punta having been given 3 previous times for departure (6.30, 9.30 and 4.00).
We then flew in an Ilyushin, with 48 on board plus a container behind. The flight lasted 4 hours and we landed at 2.30 am at Patriot Hills where there was bright sunshine. After touching down, the plane continued moving for approximately another 90 seconds on blue ice. The night came to a close with food and a sleep on proper beds!!
Friday 21st
8.00am - With just over four hours sleep we had breakfast then had a 55 minute flight in a twin otter to base camp. Base camp is fairly small at present, consisting of about 15 tents.
On Saturday 22nd we plan to head up to Camp 1.
We are currently on track and keeping to the itinerary.
Thursday 20th
10.15pm - We left Punta having been given 3 previous times for departure (6.30, 9.30 and 4.00).
We then flew in an Ilyushin, with 48 on board plus a container behind. The flight lasted 4 hours and we landed at 2.30 am at Patriot Hills where there was bright sunshine. After touching down, the plane continued moving for approximately another 90 seconds on blue ice. The night came to a close with food and a sleep on proper beds!!
Friday 21st
8.00am - With just over four hours sleep we had breakfast then had a 55 minute flight in a twin otter to base camp. Base camp is fairly small at present, consisting of about 15 tents.
On Saturday 22nd we plan to head up to Camp 1.
We are currently on track and keeping to the itinerary.
Tim arrives in Punta
The flights down to Punta all went well, with only one close shave, a dash to catch the connecting flight leaving Santiago and Punta. I met several other Antarctic climbers in Madrid, it is difficult to miss us as we travel wearing our high altitude boots and outer jackets with the pockets stuffed full to endeavour to reduce the weight of the luggage we are checking in.
I arrived in Punta on Tuesday afternoon, it is now Thursday, we have been delayed due to high winds at the landing strip at Patriot Hills. This runway is one of only a few in the world that is on blue ice and has to be kept free of snow. It rarely snows in Antarctica, but it blows a bit. Last Sunday saw 100 knot winds. We can only fly down and land when the wind speeds are below 15 to 20 knots as the runway is prone to cross winds. Our plane is massive, a Russia Ilushin, it comes into land and due to ice cannot brake, so we ´skid´ for a long distance until finally coming to rest. We have been advised that great care is needed when we get off, as accidents involving broken bones have happened after climbers have slipped getting onto the ice from the plane, (that would be the end of any climbers dream of summiting Vinson. I have met a good friend who I climbed Carstensz Pyramid with last year, (CP is the highest mountain on the Australasia continent. We have also met up with another climber who we met on Denali in Alaska. Here in Punta it remains light for most of the time, it is light when we go to bed and light when we wake up. In Antarctica it will be light for 24/7. Temperatures at the moment are not too bad at minus 17 to 20 degrees C.
I arrived in Punta on Tuesday afternoon, it is now Thursday, we have been delayed due to high winds at the landing strip at Patriot Hills. This runway is one of only a few in the world that is on blue ice and has to be kept free of snow. It rarely snows in Antarctica, but it blows a bit. Last Sunday saw 100 knot winds. We can only fly down and land when the wind speeds are below 15 to 20 knots as the runway is prone to cross winds. Our plane is massive, a Russia Ilushin, it comes into land and due to ice cannot brake, so we ´skid´ for a long distance until finally coming to rest. We have been advised that great care is needed when we get off, as accidents involving broken bones have happened after climbers have slipped getting onto the ice from the plane, (that would be the end of any climbers dream of summiting Vinson. I have met a good friend who I climbed Carstensz Pyramid with last year, (CP is the highest mountain on the Australasia continent. We have also met up with another climber who we met on Denali in Alaska. Here in Punta it remains light for most of the time, it is light when we go to bed and light when we wake up. In Antarctica it will be light for 24/7. Temperatures at the moment are not too bad at minus 17 to 20 degrees C.
Friday 14 November 2008
Hi Everyone,
Well this morning was the penultimate training session.The hard physical work seems to have paid off. Arriving back this morning after dragging the tyre five miles in the best time yet, did not have me gasping for air. Thank you to all those who shouted support for me when they were stuck in the traffic along the Wetherby road, the four lads near Fishers school, who wanted to know what I was up to and the guy on the Wetherby road who stopped for a chat and to give me inspiration, (he had skied to the South Pole a few years ago, this had been my intention, had the costs not rocketed).
Most of the extensive prep for the trip is complete. The satellite phone arrived yesterday, this will enable me to keep in contact with Henshaws provided the cold is not so intense that we can't remove any of our gloves or the storms are not too loud to prevent conversation, (this has been a problem in the past, even inside the tent).
So on Sunday I will be leaving the UK and flying via Madrid and Santiago to Punta Arenas in southern Chile. Here I will meet the three Italians and an American who I will be climbing Vinson with. From this point on the weather dictates our schedual. We may have several days to wait until the weather is good enough to fly the five to six hour flight down to antarctica, it has been know for the Ilyushin 76 aircraft to have to turn back after several hours in to the flight as a consequence of rapidly developing bad weather at Patriot Hills. Once at Paitriot Hills, again we may stay for a few days in relative luxury IE beds that are actually off the ground and ad-lib food, or we could get off the Ilyushin and straight onto the Twin Otter to fly to Base Camp. Part of the excitment is the 'not knowing'.
The intention is to keep this blog active thoughout the expedition, however as said, the weather is a major contributer to achieving that objective.
Well this morning was the penultimate training session.The hard physical work seems to have paid off. Arriving back this morning after dragging the tyre five miles in the best time yet, did not have me gasping for air. Thank you to all those who shouted support for me when they were stuck in the traffic along the Wetherby road, the four lads near Fishers school, who wanted to know what I was up to and the guy on the Wetherby road who stopped for a chat and to give me inspiration, (he had skied to the South Pole a few years ago, this had been my intention, had the costs not rocketed).
Most of the extensive prep for the trip is complete. The satellite phone arrived yesterday, this will enable me to keep in contact with Henshaws provided the cold is not so intense that we can't remove any of our gloves or the storms are not too loud to prevent conversation, (this has been a problem in the past, even inside the tent).
So on Sunday I will be leaving the UK and flying via Madrid and Santiago to Punta Arenas in southern Chile. Here I will meet the three Italians and an American who I will be climbing Vinson with. From this point on the weather dictates our schedual. We may have several days to wait until the weather is good enough to fly the five to six hour flight down to antarctica, it has been know for the Ilyushin 76 aircraft to have to turn back after several hours in to the flight as a consequence of rapidly developing bad weather at Patriot Hills. Once at Paitriot Hills, again we may stay for a few days in relative luxury IE beds that are actually off the ground and ad-lib food, or we could get off the Ilyushin and straight onto the Twin Otter to fly to Base Camp. Part of the excitment is the 'not knowing'.
The intention is to keep this blog active thoughout the expedition, however as said, the weather is a major contributer to achieving that objective.
Monday 10 November 2008
Hi Everyone,
Well, this is the final week of preparation. Yesterday saw a hard training session in which I covered over five miles on skis, pulling the 'beloved' tractor tyre. This was done in record time and was followed by a session in the gym. My diet now consists of high protein ( love the opportunity to eat so much beef) and carbs, supplemented with multi vitamin tablets.
The first packing of the ruck sacs was done and with no surprise, exceeded the air carrier's weight allowance, (it is now down to exactly 23 kg). A hard choice had to be taken between a down filled air bed and a thin pneumatic one, the thinner one won, cos it weighs 800 grammes less. With performance issuing being equal, whenever there is a choice of garment or equipment, the lighter one gets in to the ruck sack, even if it's just 10 grammes less.
We are now watching the weather in the Antarctic very closely, although notoriously fickle, it helps to psychologically prepare us. Temperatures at the South Pole at the moment are around minus 38 degrees C.
With attention to detail paramount, this week will see crampons being sharpened, 3mm cordage being tied to all zips, (try operating zips with thick down gloves on without it). inputting coordinates into GPS and a multitude of other jobs. But with only 6 days to go, the excitement and anticipation is building. As with all previous expeditions, each is unique and the unexpected adds to the sense of expectation.
Well, this is the final week of preparation. Yesterday saw a hard training session in which I covered over five miles on skis, pulling the 'beloved' tractor tyre. This was done in record time and was followed by a session in the gym. My diet now consists of high protein ( love the opportunity to eat so much beef) and carbs, supplemented with multi vitamin tablets.
The first packing of the ruck sacs was done and with no surprise, exceeded the air carrier's weight allowance, (it is now down to exactly 23 kg). A hard choice had to be taken between a down filled air bed and a thin pneumatic one, the thinner one won, cos it weighs 800 grammes less. With performance issuing being equal, whenever there is a choice of garment or equipment, the lighter one gets in to the ruck sack, even if it's just 10 grammes less.
We are now watching the weather in the Antarctic very closely, although notoriously fickle, it helps to psychologically prepare us. Temperatures at the South Pole at the moment are around minus 38 degrees C.
With attention to detail paramount, this week will see crampons being sharpened, 3mm cordage being tied to all zips, (try operating zips with thick down gloves on without it). inputting coordinates into GPS and a multitude of other jobs. But with only 6 days to go, the excitement and anticipation is building. As with all previous expeditions, each is unique and the unexpected adds to the sense of expectation.
Wednesday 29 October 2008
Yet more training.
Hi Everyone,
The training continues, two hours of dragging a tyre around the streets of Harrogate most days gets boring. So a big thanks to those who stop me for a chat, such as the lady by the traffic lights at Oakland Drive/Hookstone Road and the 'not so young' lady who gave me the thumbs up and wished me good luck.
All the hard physical work seems to be paying off, I'm not quite so knackered when I un-clip from the skis. This 'reward' will be short lived, as I will be adding a loaded ruck sack to my back next week. Both the weight in the sack and the drag of the tyre are more than we will have to carry and put in Antarctica, (I hope!).
Mount Vinson was only discovered in 1957 by American navy pilots. It took a further nine years before it was first summitted by members of the American Alpine Club. Named after a Congressman, Carl Vinson, who lobbied the US government to support Antarctic exploration. At 4,897 m this mountain is not particularly high in comparison to the giants in Tibet, but it is probably one of the most inaccessible and inhospitable. Denali in Alaska has the reputation of being the coldest mountain on Earth, however Vinson can be bitterly cold, adding to the the sense of adventure.
Some of you would have heard me on Stray FM this morning chatting about the trip and Henshaw's, so if you do see me out and about, do give Chris Bell a call or text for a dedication. 01423 522972.
all best
Tim
The training continues, two hours of dragging a tyre around the streets of Harrogate most days gets boring. So a big thanks to those who stop me for a chat, such as the lady by the traffic lights at Oakland Drive/Hookstone Road and the 'not so young' lady who gave me the thumbs up and wished me good luck.
All the hard physical work seems to be paying off, I'm not quite so knackered when I un-clip from the skis. This 'reward' will be short lived, as I will be adding a loaded ruck sack to my back next week. Both the weight in the sack and the drag of the tyre are more than we will have to carry and put in Antarctica, (I hope!).
Mount Vinson was only discovered in 1957 by American navy pilots. It took a further nine years before it was first summitted by members of the American Alpine Club. Named after a Congressman, Carl Vinson, who lobbied the US government to support Antarctic exploration. At 4,897 m this mountain is not particularly high in comparison to the giants in Tibet, but it is probably one of the most inaccessible and inhospitable. Denali in Alaska has the reputation of being the coldest mountain on Earth, however Vinson can be bitterly cold, adding to the the sense of adventure.
Some of you would have heard me on Stray FM this morning chatting about the trip and Henshaw's, so if you do see me out and about, do give Chris Bell a call or text for a dedication. 01423 522972.
all best
Tim
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